DENISE’S NOTES
This was in response to a media query for an article on how fine-dining restaurants manage a growing list of dietary restrictions and allergies.
Anant Tyagi, the co-owner and managing director of Restaurant JAG, is very well-spoken. He answered the questions off the cuff during a meeting; I then structured and polished (after transcribing for a good long while).
1. HAS THERE BEEN AN INCREASE IN ALLERGIES AND DIETARY PREFERENCES IN THE PAST FIVE YEARS AND WAS THE INCREASE PARTICULARLY SHARP IN THE LAST TWO YEARS WHEN WE HAD THE PANDEMIC? DO YOU THINK IT IS A COVID EFFECT OR BECAUSE PEOPLE ARE MORE CONSCIOUS OF THEIR HEALTH AND WELL-BEING?
In terms of dietary restrictions, our motto from day one has been that we are in the business of accommodation: as a no-menu establishment, we cook for the diners – it’s not a case of “this is our food, you come and dine”. The clientele we attract understand that they will be comfortable in the hands of Jeremy and his culinary team; we welcome them, we cook for them, we curate an experience that caters to their needs. They in turn share with others in their network that this is what we offer. Because there is awareness that we have always been positioned to accommodate allergies, the proportion has held steady over the years. At JAG, we have not seen a change in dietary restrictions, but perhaps a 5% increase in expressed preference for vegetarianism or veganism.
In our view, the increase could have been driven predominantly by the time that people spent at home during the pandemic, which afforded greater capacity to consider and grow informed about the health benefits and varying effects of different foods on the body.
Granted more time and understanding, many also had meal kits delivered to their homes to cook for themselves and modify their diets. This purposeful selection and portioning of ingredients, as well as the process of cooking for themselves, could have imparted an appreciation of simplicity; a preference for dishes that are lighter in terms of cooking techniques and more deliberate with combinations and layers. This does not mean that complexity of flavour is compromised. Rather, people increasingly value meaningful choice and incorporation, which translates to an interest in eating vegetarian or vegan at JAG – because they are aware of our knowledge of vegetables, and confident in our execution.
2. WHAT IS THE PROFILE OF DINERS WHO HAVE THESE ALLERGIES?
Generally, about 50-55% of our guests communicate dietary inclinations that range from mild preferences to more serious intolerances. We do not question the nature of a disclosed need, as we maintain it is not our place to ask. However, we are always more inquisitive when something like avoiding shellfish is quoted. We want to ensure our understanding aligns with theirs, like in distinguishing between crustaceans and shellfish.
Broadly, we note a change in the demographics of those who indicate dietary inclinations, be they allergies or not. The original profile describes locals aged 50 or older, equally split between men and women. They are well-heeled and mannered. Often, they share their joy at having found a place where their partners can enjoy a well-composed meal in its entirety. More recently, the composition has evolved to become a balanced mix of all ages and nationalities. We have also noted that more of our guests are not local. We believe that this could be due to word of the restaurant spreading both domestically and internationally.
3. BESIDES THE USUAL GLUTEN-FREE, SHELLFISH AND PEANUT ALLERGIES, WHAT ARE THE OTHER “COMMON” ALLERGIES THAT HAVE BEEN POPPING UP RECENTLY? PLEASE SHARE EXAMPLES OF HOW YOU CREATED DISHES AROUND THESE ALLERGIES.
Alongside a steady proportion of sensitivities to gluten and dairy, other common intolerances that we have observed include: G6PD deficiency – a heritable enzyme disorder associated with haemolytic anaemia that renders certain legumes such as fava beans and edamame risky to consume; and allergies to sesame seeds, mustard seeds, alliums, and eggs. An allergy to alcohol remains common, but it makes no difference as none of our food is made with alcohol.
The cited incidence of allergies that were previously less heard of could be due to heightened accessibility of allergy tests, and individuals’ increased capacity to control and eliminate elements of their diet to identify trigger foods.
JAG is an establishment that accommodates. We are precise and careful, but we do not follow recipes to a T. We feel that if one can make moderations to traditional recipes in response to changes and advancements seen in modern production of food – whether factory- produced, farm-produced, or wild; then why not adjust to incorporating alternatives, which have also advanced? It is not a challenge, rather an opportunity.
For example, in terms of dairy: for someone to say that French food – the purées, mashes, reductions, sauces, sears, braises, and so on – “cannot be done without dairy” would be factually incorrect. Traditionally, looking at recipes from the 1600s and 1700s, dairy was not included being that it was unsafe back then. It is a modern perception that French cuisine and dairy are inseparable. Jeremy and his team are well equipped and comfortable with the use of alternatives like soy or oat milk where necessary. We have everything ready in the kitchen, and the components of our dishes are by themselves generally free of allergens. What matters is how individual elements are finished – taking for example a puree of broccoli; to impart a silkier texture we put it in a pan and make it a bit more liquid – what we add to that could be oat milk, coconut milk, or soy milk.
4. WHAT WAS THE MOST UNUSUAL ALLERGY AND PERSONAL DIETARY PREFERENCE AND HOW DID YOU WORK AROUND IT? WHICH WAS THE WEIRDEST?
We have received notes about not preferring to have vegetables. In some cases, say if greens like spinach or kale are to be eliminated, then we find ways to introduce the same flavours with other ingredients or techniques. With the passage of time and experience, alongside effort to study and understand, we grow more confident with our methods of accommodation.
5. HAVE ALL THESE ALLERGIES AND DIETARY PREFERENCES AFFECTED THE WAY YOU SHAPE YOUR MENU? DO YOU CRAFT DISHES THAT ARE “FLEXIBLE” ENOUGH TO SUBSTITUTE OR REMOVE INGREDIENTS WITHOUT AFFECTING THE OVERALL TASTE?
Substitutions and replacements do not exist to begin with, because we have designed our menu to be flexible, where we build upon components. Nothing is cooked ahead of time. At JAG, what we deliver is a celebration of vegetables. Our preparation – blanching, baking, pickling, so on – does not rely on incorporation of any common allergens like dairy to retain or enhance the vegetables’ flavours. Finishing touches of ingredients like dairy constitute perhaps 5% of our procedure and may be readily modified.
More specifically: around 95% of our entire menu does not contain dairy. On occasion, a finishing element like a sauce might contain a small amount of butter, but not milk and cream. Across the board, it is very rare to find dairy in our dishes; wherever there is dairy, it is something that is added last and can be easily alternated. In the case of gluten, we have consciously stepped away from the use of wheat flour. There are some elements including flour, but not necessarily wheat; it may be buckwheat, sorghum, or millet. We benefit from the fact that we are a flavour-driven experience serving small bites. To illustrate, if we were to prepare something large en croute, then the stability of pastry done flourless would be affected as it would necessitate a binding agent. We benefit from the smaller scale at which we create; the swapping of wheat for grain is natural and does not compromise composition.
In addition, when a guest makes a reservation, we ensure there are multiple points of contact. Upon confirmation, our patrons receive prompts via email or text message to share their dietary inclinations. Secondarily, a member of our staff will also call or send a message to confirm the reservation and ask after any dietary preferences or allergies to be noted. We understand that in some instances it is difficult for people to establish their dining partners’ dietary inclinations. Companions might be flying in; it could be a business dinner or a date where it is uncomfortable to ask what a person does not eat. Hypothetically, if we had 10 tables seating pairs, and the entire floor indicates at the last moment that that they are vegan, then it would be a challenge for us as we would not have the ability to turn the entire room. However, 50% of the room at the last minute? We are ready for that.
6. WHAT IS YOUR STANCE ON DIETARY PREFERENCES – WHERE DO YOU DRAW THE LINE ON WHAT YOU WOULD ACCOMMODATE AND NOT?
Jeremy and I feel that in not striving to accommodate, there is a massive opportunity missed in one’s ability as a chef to utilise your skill to create something for a person who wishes to enjoy your food. You have the ability, you have the ingredients, but it is by choice you are not doing it. We feel for and understand the diner; one should have control over what they want to eat, and we respect their decisions. It is our hope that no one feels left out or any lesser than their dining companions. Time and effort go into understanding the food and all the ingredients Jeremy uses, so when in the dining room a guest shares a dietary preference with us, the entire team is equipped to respond.
When we might categorise a request beyond our means to execute would be an expressed preference for no vegetables. This is purely because we feel that there are other establishments offering experiences that may be better aligned with the guest’s desires, and we would direct them to these alternatives.
hey, it's denise 